Poultry Management
It is extremely important that a poultry housing provides protection against the rain and direct sunlight, and that it is free from draughts yet well ventilated, to prevent build up of ammonia and spread of disease.
To determine the appropriate size of a hen house, allow approximately 1/3 square metre of floor space per bird. Thus a 20 bird flock would require a floor area of at least 7 square metres. The average hen also needs approximately 250mm of perch space. The perch needs to be at a comfortable jumping height. In general, 600mm will suffice.
Hens have a natural tendency to perch. Without perches they will perch on anything available including nests, feeders and if not too high, the top of the fence. At night, and without perches, the birds will crowd into a corner of the hen house and soon a hard, caked patch of manure will form.
Nests need to be clean, comfortable and fairly dark to ensure seclusion from the rest of the hen house. The amount of nesting space per flock is again dependent on flock size. As a rule, 6 layers require approximately 1 square metre of nesting space.
Nesting material can be of straw, wood shavings or bracken (which tend to repel parasites from infecting the nest), and should be at least 100mm deep.
• Nests need to be clean, comfortable and fairly dark to ensure
seclusion from the rest of the hen house. The amount of nesting
space per flock is again dependent on flock size. As a rule, 6 layers
require approximately 1 square metre of nesting space.
• Nesting material can be of straw, wood shavings or bracken (which
tend to repel parasites from infecting the nest), and should be at
least 100mm deep.
• Shallow nests cause fighting and encourage feather picking
and cannibalism.
It is important that the nest be kept clean so as not to soil the eggs. Never let hens sleep in the nests at night as most bird’s droppings are passed at this time resulting in the nests becoming caked with manure. To prevent this from happening initially it may be necessary to close off the nest in the evening before they roost, and then reopen them when they are asleep for the night. After a week or two the birds will have formed their own roosting habits and not seek the nests at night.
Layers in their second laying season produce only 70-75% of the eggs laid in their first year. For maximum production you are best to replace your flock yearly.
1. Egg Eating
Any laying bird will eat broken eggs. This is a natural tendency and not caused by any feed deficiency.
This can develop into a vice whereby a hen pecks at eggs to break and eat them. Once this habit starts it is difficult to break and will result in serious egg losses. To prevent egg eating, provide plenty of litter in nests, remove broken eggs promptly and collect eggs twice a day. If egg eating becomes regular, place decoy eggs, such as plastic nest eggs or empty natural eggs filled with mustards and peppers, in accessible places for offending hen(s) to eat. Hens will eventually tire of attempting to peck and break plastic eggs.
2. Feather Eating
This vice usually results from overcrowding, idleness and poor conditions. If it is neglected it may develop into cannibalism. Once it starts it is very difficult to stop. The primary task is to occupy the birds. Assuming your hens are well housed with adequate space, this can be done by scattering feed e.g. NRM Feed Wheat or NRM Mixed Grain over the ground for them to scratch around for. If your hens are confined in a henhouse hang greens in wire baskets for your hens to pick at, or allow your hens access to the outdoors.
3. Treating Broken Skin to Prevent Cannibalism
Smearing “Stockholm Tar” over the injured area should treat injured birds. This product is extremely distasteful to offending birds. If these measures fail, the only remaining solution is to cull out the offending bird(s).
4. Broodiness
This is a natural, maternal instinct that can cause decreased egg production. Broody hens do not lay eggs but occupy the nest for extended periods of time, preventing other hens from laying. Evens during the night broody hens tend to remain on the nest rather than roosting with other hens on the perch.
Other signs of broodiness include the ruffling of feathers, aggressiveness when approached on the nest and making a characteristic clucking noise. Broody hens should be removed to separate wire coops. Provided with minimal physical comfort, they should be cured within 3-4 days after which they can be returned to the flock. Keep a close watch for the next few days, as they may lapse back to being broody. Repeat the above isolation treatment if they do.